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Kingston, Jamaica, Jan 19
The telegraph will have already brought full accounts of the disaster which overwhelmed the city of Kingston on January 14; and so rapid and so varied is the march of events that doubtless long ere this letter reaches its destination the memory of that dark day will have been blotted out by newer incidents, and by matters of more immediate concern.
But neither those who have suffered from all those who have witnessed the devastation wrought in a few moments, who have passed through the stricken city, and who have observed the patient endurance of its suffering people, will forget for many a long day the scenes and emotions of those sorrowful days.
Fifty-six acres in the heart of Kingston have been burnt to the ground; wharves, warehouses, banks, shops, and dwellings have been reduced to a formless mass of charred ruins. Outside the area which has been devastated by fire, the destruction, though not so complete, has been widespread. It is not wise to venture on definitive figures when no actual statistics are available; but observation in many parts of the town tends to confirm the estimate that has been formed to the effect that three buildings out of four have been ruined or seriously injured.
The number of the dead is not known; probably it never will be known. Up to this evening over 600 bodies had been buried. But this certainly does not represent half the mortality. It is stated that at least a thousand persons have been burnt to death under the ruins or have been crushed under the debris, and their bodies extricated only to be consumed in the undiscriminating funeral pyres at blaze at the corners of the streets. The estimate may be too high. I do not know. It is quite possible it may be too low, for undoubtedly the full tale of the victim is imprisoned under the fallen masonry has not yet been numbered.
Of the wounded, too, there is as yet no official list. The crowded hospital, the relief hospitals at Spanish town and elsewhere contain but a proportion of the sufferers. And all this misery and the misery yet come are the outcome of a single tram are which has affected but three parishes in the entire island, and which, had it not be the handiwork of man, would have left no trace behind it, would have destroyed the life of neither man nor beast, and would have been a scarce noted episode in the history of the colony.
Perhaps even after many days the story of this strange event may be worth telling in somewhat greater detail than telegraphic brevity will allow. If here and there the narrative assumes a personal character, the excuse must be that of so great a hole each man sees but a part; and, though the recorder of events may learn much from others, it is only that which he sees with his own eyes that he can recount with absolute certainty.
Monday, January 14, was a fete day in Kingston. The members of the British cotton growing association, who had a ride on the previous Friday by the Port Kingston, had completed their round of expeditions, and had assembled in the morning for the first business meeting of the conference. The opening meeting, which was held in the board school, Hanover Street had been a thorough success. The Governor had delivered an inaugural address, said Daniel Morris had taken the chair, loyal resolutions had been proposed and passed by acclamation, and the meeting had disbursed in excellent spirits to luncheon, prepared to resume serious business at half past two.
This adjournment naturally led to a wide dispersal of the members. Some found their way to the Myrtle Bank Hotel, situated on the edge of the harbour, and in the midst of the city; others accepted a hospitable invitation to the club, a building which stands, or rather stood, in the same street as the conference hall. It was at the club that Sir James Ferguson and Mr Gerald Loder, just arrived from Panama, lunched as guests of the Governor.
All were in the best of spirits. No sign in earth or sky afforded a pressage of what nature had in store. It does not appear that any marked barometrical movement was noticed. A recording barograph on board the Port Kingston Dyer's, it is true, there are trace of the earthquake shock, but the interruption of the line is due solely to the violent shock received by the instrument, and indicates no atmospheric disturbance. One warning indeed there was, which perhaps the skilled observer, the habitue of the earthquake zone, might have interpreted. If no token came from both all see, there was at least one portent vouchsafed from the sky. While those who had returned to the meeting of the conference were absorbed in the papers on sugar and cane became suddenly, no man knew whence, a stronger rushing wind. Many noticed it, many spoke of it, and wondered at so unusual phenomenon; but no one seems to have recognised it as the forerunner of the earthquake shock. The conference was pursuing the even tenor of its way. Mr Bovell was reading a paper on seedling canes. It was just after half past three when the shock came. On thousands of people the blow fell; hundreds have, doubtless, recorded their impressions of it. The record of these impressions will vary infinitely according to the circumstances of each case and the temperament of each observer. The impression left on the mind of the present writer is clear and well-defined. Suddenly, without warning of any kind, became the fierce note of the earthquake. The sound was very loud, and had a personal and vindictive quality in it. The image, not of subsequent reflection, but of the moment, was that of some savage animal which had grasped the Earth in its jaws and was shaking it to overthrow with the noise half growl and half growl. The din continued, the walls shook and rattled; objects fail from the walls and ceiling. The chairman, chair and all, were overthrown upon the platform.
It is sometimes curious to know the sensations of an individual presence of
an entirely new phenomenon. Those of the writer may be recorded very succinctly.
They were as follows: --
1. This is obviously an earthquake. Earthquakes in this island have been rare
and slight; perhaps this will be slight.
2. This will be a tremendous setback to the work of the conference, and consequently
to the prosperity of Jamaica.
3. This is very serious, and we shall probably all be killed the moment the
roof falls.
4. We had better get out as soon as we can.
5. We must be very careful not to crowd.
Fortunately nobody did crowd. The Archbishop sat resolutely in his place. Some persons called out "don't go out," "keep inside," a council of which the wisdom did not seem apparent, and which was not followed.
There was only one door, at the end of the room opposite the platform, but the whole company made their exit through this into the street without difficulty. By this time the earthquake was over. How long it lasted I do not know. The duration of the shock has been put as high as three minutes. It was probably much less.
In some places it was felt as a rolling motion, the Earth appearing to rise and fall in waves. Elsewhere it was, as described above, a heavy shaking from side to side. Two of the pillars of the hall were broken through, but stood; one corner of the building gave way, but the structure as a whole remained upright. There was no time to look round. Even in this broad Street who were signs of the destruction that had overtaken the narrower thoroughfares. Walls had come down everywhere, the telegraph and telephone wires lay across the roadway; the club a little further down the street was a massive ruins. It was impossible not to note the good behaviour of the people. A few women uttered shrill laments, and wave their arms, but the vast majority kept their heads.
Seward are mounted messengers came galloping by seeking help; buddies with wounded past. Seated on the garden step over ruined villa it was possible to watch the strange scene at leisure. The owner of the villa brought a jug of water from the ruins, a kindly act. Then came men hastening from their offices in the town, men who had escaped by a miracle, and who were filled with anxiety for their families. The writer, anxious for friends left at Constant Spring, sought for some means to accomplish the 6 miles journey. The trams had stopped, the roads were covered with debris. At length to friendly occupants of a buggy offered the luggage platform behind as a seat. Another pedestrian was taken up in front, and the journey began. The road, encumbered by debris and bordered by ruined houses, was ill calculated to justify the hope that the houses in which the four occupants of the buggy were interested would be spared. One by one however, each passenger was relieved by news shouted from the roadside. "Your people all right." " House damaged, no one hurt." So all is well.
The Constant Spring Hotel had stood. The three stone porticos were damaged, the western tower was in ruins; but the wooden wings were undamaged. It was an anxious party that stood waiting in the garden for the news that was long in coming. Nearly every one of those present had relatives who had remained in town, and already it was known that in the city there had been loss of life, though the extent of the calamity was by no means realised. During the afternoon and evening most of the missing were accounted for. A few were injured, but the majority were safe. The escapes from the Myrtle Bank Hotel were extraordinary; several persons were buried among the ruins, and their bodies were not extricated till two or three days later; but the majority of the inmates had escaped from the wreck unscathed.
Then came sadder news will stop the body of Sir James Ferguson had been found crushed under a fallen wall. He had apparently passed into the street after the shock and had been overwhelmed. Mr Gerald Loder was pinned down by the debris in the fall in the clubhouse, and Mr Bradley was killed almost as his side. The port of Kingston was early turned into a floating hospital. Sir Alfred Jones, on behalf of the Elder Dempster Company, publicly announced that the ship and all it contained were at the disposal of the injured. The offer was once taken advantage of, and scores of victims were carried on board. It was intimated to the passengers that they would on no account be allowed to return on board until further orders. Meanwhile great columns of smoke rose from various parts of the town -- proof that fire, the terrible and inevitable sequel of the earthquake, had gained the mastery.
The deep tragedy of the earthquake had not yet been fully accomplished. An attempt will be made to describe it. Meanwhile it is permissible to dwell for a moment on the humourous element which was apparent in this as the most other calamities. The party at Constant Spring, forbidden to enter the town, and naturally I am willing to venture into the shattered hotel, made their preparations for a night in the open. In a very short space of time a score of little laagers were established on the lawn; sofas, chairs, cautions, and in some case beds, were requisitioned. The Fountain, its central statue shaken from its pedestal, formed a convenient, and washing place; and the warm, beautiful night closed down upon a thankful but wearied company, to many of whom a night out of doors even in the tropics, must have been a new experience. All night long the great fires blaze, and at dawn the "Southern Cross" Rose in splendour through the lurid glow of the flames above the dark pall of cloud and into the clear dark sky above. It should here be added that the reluctance of the campers to re-enter the hotel was increased by the number of subsidiary shocks which were felt during the night and during the following day. No fewer than 16 of these tremors were counted, and three were shocks of some importance, which brought down blocks of torturing masonry in many places. It was the subject of general remark that every shot appeared to be preceded at an interval of 15 to 20 minutes by a sudden and brisk wind. The direction of the tremors appeared to be from the west by North East by South it was not till the Tuesday that a return to the city was permitted.
In the opinion of some persons, it would have been well if immediate application had been made to the willing men would pass the 24 hours enforced inaction at Constant Spring, and the parties had been formed for an immediate and systematic search of the ruins before the advancing fire made all efforts useless. It is undoubtedly the fact that many persons were burnt to death in the absence of organised rescue parties, and it is possible that among the many men are available, of whom nearly all had some experience in the organisation or command, the nucleus of such search parties might have been formed. It is easy, however, to be wise after the event. The government or displayed great courage and untiring energy, and much admirable work was done. But that, for a time, there was necessary work left undone, and that there were hands willing to do it, is undoubted.
Once in the city, it was possible to realise the extent of the damage, and the terrible suffering it had caused. The officers and crew of the Port Kingston had passed through a terrible ordeal, bringing on board the wounded, assisting Dr Evans and his in adequate but indefatigable staff in the continuous and heavy operations which were performed on board. Those of the crew who were not required for these purposes were occupied in guarding the unburnt portions of the wharves.
For all on board the night was a terrible one, and it is permissible to say that the people of Kingston owed much to the labours of Captain Parsons, Dr Evans, the nurse, and the officers and crew of the ship.
It would be idle to attempt to furnish a complete account of the incidents of the three days succeeding the shock, but some of the principal facts, vouched for by the writer's personal examination or by trustworthy report, must be recorded.
The outbreak of fire followed immediately after the first shock, and the flames spread with great rapidity. In many places the water supply was cut off, and an especially dry season had made the town like tinder. In Harbour Street and in many other places the walls fell outwards and straight across the streets, many of those who perished losing their lives just as they emerged from their houses, while in some cases those who remained with in escaped. Imprisoned under the fallen masonry scores of persons were burned to death, their bodies only being discovered days later, when decomposition commenced.
Three wharves escaped, those of the Royal Mail Company, the Direct West Indian line, and the Hamburg-American. The others were destroyed, together with immense stacks of coal, timber, and other valuable articles. The government rum store collapsed, and with other buildings was strictly guarded by the soldiers of the West India Regiment and by the police. It would not be true to say that there was no looting, but it was trifling in extent, and was immediately checked. The bright feature of the whole disaster has been the admirable behaviour of men and women of all classes and all colours. There has been either panic, violence, not despair. The conduct of the soldiers and police has been excellent. Before I have a heavy casualty list to deplore the camp where the troops are quartered is situated some 2 miles from the shore. The shock here proved most disastrous. The Presents a miserable spectacle. Not a single building is left in a state bid for habitation. The hospital fell flat and caught fire. Major Hardiman, W. I. R., and 26 men were killed. Lieutenant Lamont, 1st W.I.R., was killed in the town. Colonel Dalrymple Hay, commanding the regiment, was seriously injured, and other officers suffered injuries or less severe. General Marshall's house bell, and Mrs Marshall, pinned under the debris, was rescued only after half an hour's Labour under the most dangerous conditions. I am happy to learn that her injuries are not serious. Mrs Bowels, wife of Colonel Bowles,C.R.E., was injured. King's House is practically a ruin. The lighthouse outside the pallisades has been disabled, and in consequence the German steamer, disregarding the warning signals made to her from the beach, went ashore in close proximity to the Prinzessin Luise, which already lies a hopeless wreck upon the shore. The hospital has suffered, but fortunately the destruction there has been only partial. It is to the town hospital that the majority of sufferers have been conveyed will stop scenes on Monday and Tuesday were terrible. The water supply was broken, and water had to be brought from outside. The staff of doctors and nurses was wholly inadequate; the stock of anaesthetics was insufficient to the sudden demand. The number of amputations was very large, the injuries being mostly in the left leg and I -- a circumstance for which I can vouch that cannot account -- and in the head. The worst wounds of all were due to Burns. The greatest praise is due to those who bore the burden and heat of the day during this trying period in the hospital. Many of those who did so were volunteers. Among whom were some of the visitors from the Port Kingston. The courage and devotion of the doctors and their assistants, the labours of the nurses under the ladies who volunteered to assist them at length obtained their reward; by Thursday the most painful and distressing part of the work had been accomplished. But the hospital is still dangerously overcrowded, and their water and antiseptics are now available, great care will have to be taken to avoid an attack of enteric, which the broken drains will tend to foster.
I have spoken of the action of the Governor, of the troops, of the police, of the medical men, and of civilians of all classes I have said nothing of the part played by the British Navy. The reason is not far to seek, and it is a lamentable one. There is probably no precedent for the event which took place on Wednesday last, when three ships of United States Navy entered Kingston Harbour, and offered the comfort and protection of the Stars & Stripes to the stricken inhabitants of the capital city of a great and ancient British colony. To Admiral Davies and the officers and men under his command the thanks of the people of Jamaica are due. To Admiral Evans, who, I understand took upon himself the responsibility of dispatching the squadron, anticipating the approval of the Navy Department, a similar tribute is only. The motive which inspired the visit was a friendly and philanthropic one. The valuable professional aid of the American medical officers was timely and welcome. That an armed party should have been sent ashore is to be regretted; but the blame, if blame that the, does not rest with the Admiral, who is known that under the impression that the population were out of hand, and that there was neither authority to direct, nor force to control, the growing agitation. On all those points Admiral Davies was misinformed. There was no disturbance in no danger, an armed force was available at the proper direction, and acting in strict obedience to orders. But Jamaica is a very hot bed of idle rumours and unfounded stories, and it is not to be wondered at that the rumour of disorder should spread in circumstances in which disorder might reasonably be anticipated. Nevertheless, the landing of United States Marines was an error, an error which, unless I am greatly misinformed, was due to a misconception of his duties by a subordinate, and not to the act of the Governor, who are learning what had taken place, lost not a moment in thanking Admiral Davies for his prompt a friendly action, and requesting him to withdraw an armed force for whose service that was no use whatever. But, if no blame attaches to Sir Alexander Swettenham or to Admiral Davies, what are we to say of the British Admiralty and of those who would have so mismanaged matters that on the fifth day after such a disaster as that of the 14th of January not a single British pennant was to be seen within the limits of Kingston Harbour? Where disaster has occurred it has been the immemorial practice of the British Navy to be first, to bring aid and confidence to the people of other lands. A new precedent has been set when the British Navy is the last come to the assistance of British subjects. It is difficult to describe the sense of humiliation with which an Englishman surveys Kingston Harbour this evening. Onshore is the devastated town, a float are two American battleships, three German steamers, the tuba and steamer, and one British ship; she believes tonight, at the White ends in other red ends in will be as absent from Kingston Harbour as from the military basins of Keil and Cherbourg.
It is difficult to represent the action of the Admiralty as other than a grave
breach of faith. When the white infantry were withdrawn from the West Indies
the Admiralty gave a triple undertaking --
one that a ship with 300 Marines on board should patrol the islands.
Two that the diamond, a 22 knot vessel, should be constantly in these waters
to cope with emergencies such as those which arose in British Guiana and Trinidad.
Three that the training squadron should constantly visit the islands.
Every one of these pledges has been broken. The indefatigable, which is half the year at Bermuda, has not got 300 Marines or anything like it. The diamond is author coast of Newfoundland. The cruiser squadron is believed to be somewhere off the coast of Africa. It is certainly not here. Meanwhile the obvious precaution of installing wireless telegraphy has been neglected. The cables broken by the earthquake were useless, and though communication could be made with the indefatigable at Barbados.
The people of Kingston behaved admirably, but, if disturbance had followed the terrible calamity of Monday, as they would have followed in many other capitals, the might of been a massacre in Jamaica and the British Admiralty would have been responsible.
This letter has already run to an inordinate length, and there is much which should be described which has perforce been admitted. It may, however, be well in a few concluding sentences to summarise the general conclusions which the writer has been led to form as to the events of the week.
1 in the first place, the entire damage and loss of life from which Kingston has suffered was avoidable, or might at least have been reduced to such small limits as to be negligible. The earthquake has been a serious one, but it has left the face of nature undisturbed. The dust in a black man's naked footprint formed on Monday morning was undisturbed on Monday evening the tramway rails have not shifted from the balance sufficiently to allow the insertion of a sheet of paper stop the crops are unscathed, neither man, Bird, or beast in the open has suffered. It is the buildings and, above all, the high buildings, which have come down like a house of cards. Some wooden buildings have fallen, but the number is few; concrete combined with brick has failed, the concrete below appears to have stood.
If the city be rebuilt, as it ought to be, of steel and concrete Allwood and plaster a shock such as that of Monday would leave it practically undisturbed. The Governor has power under the existing law to insist that the city shall be so rebuilt.
2 the real prosperity of Jamaica is checked but not arrested. Not only have
the sources of her wealth remain unimpaired, but, if the promise held out by
the new industry of cotton planting be fulfilled, those resources are about
to be greatly increased.
3 The policy of the Admiralty with respect to the protection of the West Indies
is wrong and unworthy. Wireless telegraphy should be established at once between
all the islands.
4 the conduct of the people of Jamaica of all classes, in circumstances of great
trial, has been admirable, and entitles them to the warm sympathy and assistance
of the British people.